Thursday, April 21, 2005

Another surfing frontier: Angola

It might be that the future surfing frontiers come out of places that have been ravaged by war for a long time, like Angola.

Life & Leisure News Article | Reuters.com

Thursday, April 14, 2005

The day the music died

60+ guys out one of my favourite right-hand point breaks, including attack of the killer mals; a whole new crew of grumpy old men on absurdly long boards, and a stack of young kids scratching around for any ripple that moved. Add SCHOOL HOLIDAYS, and a KNOWN SWELL from the day before + a 29 degree day in the middle of April + a ONSHORE change coming tomorrow, and you have the recipe for a shit-fight. It was the least enjoyable surfing experience I've had in years, and there were good quality waves coming through.

Sunday, April 03, 2005

Attack of the killer guilts

Yesterday I decided to stay in town for a street party with the people in the neighbourhood; a great idea and a good way to meet people you sometimes pass in the street, with a nod or not.

Trouble is, it's was northerly and the tail end of the great week of surf that the Ripcurl Pro had at Woollami; I was watching coastalwatch in the morning before the party and Portsea looked so fun: clear blue waves, small and uncrowded, not too windy.

So I'm at the party talking to very nice people, not enjoying myself coz I think I should be surfing. And I get a couple of SMSs saying how good the waves are etc. etc and an email! Sheez.

Surfing can do that! It's done it to me for twenty-five years, and here am I in my late 40s, sitting around in Hawthorn at a lovely barbeque with some new and interesting people who all live in the area, and I'm wishing I was down the surf! I don't know anything else that can do that to you. Which is kinda the beauty and the terror of surfing.