Tuesday, January 27, 2004

My brother reported back and said the new board went well in the couple of crumby surfs he got down the coast, but you've got to keep your back foot way back. I'm glad that it has worked out!

Monday, January 26, 2004

When I moved the blog here yesterday, I noticed that all the old links were gone. C'est la vie! One that I think is the most useful though is the triggers site, with the cams. The link is below.

Trigger Brothers Surfboards

Sunday, January 25, 2004

EARLY POSTINGS 2001-2003

Friday, September 28, 2001
Just got back from a week away down the west coast, surfing beach breaks mainly, with my brother and some good fun too. Weather improving, putting the booties away, one day coming back from Apollo Bay we saw a whale offshore and watched it for a while, huge and just beyond the breaking waves. Then, three big groups of dolphins, over a hundred. Nice to be surfing in conditions like that!
posted by Warrick Wynne at Friday, September 28, 2001



Friday, September 21, 2001
Got the new American SURFER mag today, an oversized edition with a picture of a little kid on the cover, called Surfing Forever. On the cover it said: 'When do you plan to quit surfing? If you can't answer this - if the idea has never occurred to you - then you must stop and consider the implications: if you don't ever plan to quit surfing, this means you plan on...surfing forever'

It's a different kind of angle from the current issue of Tracks; the 31st birthday issue with a motley collection of 'fools, freaks, and frothers' with a picture os some guy with sparks coming out of his arse on the cover.

And that's the difference: the Americans think Australian surf magazines are teenage trash, catering for the masturbatory fantasties of young Oz males and pandering to the old lowest common denominator, treat em all like they've got no brains. And the Australians, when they think about it, think that the American mags are at best, well....romantic. They describe the surfer mag book 'Perfect Day' as 'as you might expect, coming from the States, it's lacked with a fair bit of surfing romanticism' Which do you want? Hard core slash and burn oz-ism? or the idea of the thing.

You can check Surfer Mag at Surfer Mag
posted by Warrick Wynne at Friday, September 21, 2001



Tuesday, September 18, 2001
Northerly today; someone out there's having some fun I bet. Technology meeting all day!
posted by Warrick Wynne at Tuesday, September 18, 2001



Saturday, September 15, 2001
After the horrific events in New York this week it was nice to get back into the cold water of Western Port Bay this morning with plenty of swell around (though I was told it was twice as big yesterday) and not too many guys surfing the bowl at Honeysuckle. It wasn't quite as cold as I expected and I took off my wetsuit helmet after a while and managed to get a few, though I've got to get surf fit again. Coming in I saw Mark McCabe and brother, ready for his first surf of the spring after having the winter off to go skiing.
posted by Warrick Wynne at Saturday, September 15, 2001



Sunday, September 09, 2001
and of course Sunday morning it's onshore; gone SW overnight and strong as well. Good morning for a walk along the beach.
posted by Warrick Wynne at Sunday, September 09, 2001



Saturday, September 08, 2001
and coming home around past Fisherman's Beach tonight, picking up Feeb from work, two guys surfing the bay; only a couple of foot but so nice to see the shapes of surfers paddling out into the waves, that looked quite clean surprisingly, though not quite big enough to tempt me out into the wild!
posted by Warrick Wynne at Saturday, September 08, 2001



Pretty strong northerly this Saturday morning and I checked out Mornington Pier early just to see the wind direction and strength;strong enough to blow spray across the pier and stop any keen fishermen from getting out there, but absolutely howling. The surf report from Triggers said it was about a metre at gunna and howling offshore so I rang Steve who said it was blowing a gale down there and he'd checked Snatches and it was very peaky and ridgey; I forgotten the exact word he used but I knew exactly what it was like from the one word I could visualise exacty what it was like. Decided not to go down with the forecast for gale force winds - around 40 knots going around more westerly later. Just after that Johnno rang, looking for a surf, a great surprise since I haven't had a surf with him for ages. Next weekend...
posted by Warrick Wynne at Saturday, September 08, 2001



Thinking about Surfing

I've started this as a an (easy??) way to share ongoing thoughts and reflections about surfing around here, here being the Mornington Peninsula area south of Melbourne Australia. Here, not being renowned for its fabulous surf, and me, not being renowned for being a fantabulous surfer, but more for me to think about and record some of the surfing and surfing related things that happen. We'll see how it goes.
posted by Warrick Wynne at Saturday, September 08, 2001
Talked my brother into getting a Stubby, and he picked it up yesterday and took it down to the West Coast this weekend to try it out. However, I keep getting SMS messages saying the surf's crap down there, and he hasn't got it in the water yet.
January 2004 Postings (before the blogger thing broke!)

TRACKS
posted by Warrick Wynne at Sunday, January 11, 2004



Checked out the latest TRACKS with the 100 Greatest surfers of all time. For the record the top 10 are:

1 Kelly Slater (no arguments there)
2 Occy (ditto)
3 Tom Curren (dunno, haven't seen him surf enough)
4. Tom Carroll (definitely; actual water-man)
5. Taj Burrow (okay, alarm bells ringing!! Taj Burrow is the 5th best surfer of all time???????? What the ??) Billabong surfer
6 Mark Richards (agree)
7 Mick Fanning (more alarm bells, louder this time! Mick Fanning is the 7th best surfer OF ALL TIME! I saw him surf at Bells and he's hot, and fast..but ALL TIME??? Or maybe he's the RIPCURL candidate; keep that Tracks advertising dollar nice and evenly!
8 Joel Parkinson (wow, how amazing! three of the best surfers OF ALL TIME are current Australian surfers, and not a World Championship between them!; surfing in Australia sure is in terrific shape!)
9. Andy Irons (no arguments)
10. MP (no arguments from a man who bought his first TRACKS mag in 1972!

But come on! Is this real? Consider some of the others down the track:

11 - Layne Beachley (fair call, heaps of world titles, she can surf)
12 - The DUKE - surely a top ten contender?
13 - LAIRD - fair enough, if you call that stuff surfing.
14 - RABBIT - good call - breaking down the door
15 - NAT - a little low?
16 - LOPEZ - fair enough, only really stood out at PIPE and maybe at INDO later.
20 - Wayne Lynch - Hoax Caosters like to see a VICCO there.
22 - Bruce Irons - ??
24 - RCJ - too high, for just a tow-in surfer?
25 - Cheyne Horan - too low?
27 - Micky Dora - way too low
46 - Terry Fitz - sultan of speed is rated too low, as are most of the people who didn't actually compete on the TOUR this year.
63 - Jeff Hackman - too low a ranking for Mr Sunset

It's all a bit of a game, so you can't take it all seriously, but some of it is too laughable to be even a game!


posted by Warrick Wynne at Sunday, January 11, 2004



Oh, and I meant to add this link to the PORTSEA CAM:

PORTSEA NOW!!
posted by Warrick Wynne at Sunday, January 11, 2004



Summer; time of the great south-easterlies and the dreaded 'in between swells', too big for the beach breaks unless you're into riding reforms (and they're not good for my ears!) and too small for the Western Port waves. So, each morning it's log on to the Coastal watch site and see what intrepid reporter Steve Robertson has to say about the East Coast, and look at some blurry shots of Portsea, which this morning is all being made up for the IRON MAN lifesaving competition.

I DID have a good surf the other day on a little reef break, so clean that the waves kinda pulled over the rocks like a little bubble and you could see the reef and the seaweek and the potholes and the lava rocks below as you flew along these little punch waves. That was fun.
posted by Warrick Wynne at Sunday, January 11, 2004
December 2003 Postings (no November postings)

Tuesday, December 23, 2003
Still days and days of ordinary surf, with lots of in-between days and days of onshores. A couple of small beach break days that I missed a couple of weeks ago, and now so long since my last decent surf that I have to go thorugh the 'getting back into it' surf or two before getting surf fit again. It's a bit of a cycle, and not one I like!
posted by Warrick Wynne at Tuesday, December 23, 2003



Sunday, December 07, 2003
Not enough surfing in the last month, with work commitments and some ordinary weekend weather. I did miss one good Saturday morning, but am very keen to get back into it, with only a week till holidays.
posted by Warrick Wynne at Sunday, December 07, 2003
October 2003 Postings

Friday, October 31, 2003
Just finished reading a book on surfing, 'The Water's Edge', or more accurately a novel where surfing is one oof the main characters. Some bits even too hippy for me, but also some good stuff. Shall review it in more detail later.
posted by Warrick Wynne at Friday, October 31, 2003
September 2003 Postings

Sunday, September 21, 2003
At last, got back in the water yesterday on a beautiful spring day, catching the tail end of a swell that has lasted all week and clumsily, stumbling back into some surf. It was nice to feel that cold water again, and remember how the coast looks from the water, in that soft spring light.
posted by Warrick Wynne at Sunday, September 21, 2003
August 2003 Postings

Saturday, August 23, 2003
No surf for a while as I recover from a bout of dizziness from my bad (eg. unoperated) ear after that really cold surf. I think the ear got a bit blocked and its still ringing a bit. So, I've got to pick and choose my surfs carefully this time of year, which mostly means no surf lately.
posted by Warrick Wynne at Saturday, August 23, 2003
July 2003 Postings

Sunday, July 27, 2003
Yesterday, standing on the cliff checking the surf all along the bay, and two guys standing there doing the same thing, are talking about the buoy readings; on the Hoax Coast!?

So I go to the Triggers site and find this site again; still not quite sure what it all means, but it sounded all Hawaii-like just the same!

Victorian Channels Authority
posted by Warrick Wynne at Sunday, July 27, 2003



Saturday, July 19, 2003
Did get a surf last night; the first for a couple of weeks, and colder than it was a couple of weeks ago. Booties mandatory, hood an optional extra for any windy days. Got my first 'ice-cream headache' as I got caught inside and had to duck dive through a couple. The waves were suprisingly glassy, and a little bigger than I thought and it was uncrowded too. Only other guy out when I first paddled out. Lasted 45 minutes and got a few, then arced up the seat warmers on the Subaru for the drive home!
posted by Warrick Wynne at Saturday, July 19, 2003



Check out this new site from some of the hoaxters: a new DVD ZINE magaziney kind of thingy, which promises to be a great new innovation in the surf mag business.

First issue coming later this year.

isurf-dvdzine
posted by Warrick Wynne at Saturday, July 19, 2003



Friday, July 18, 2003
Water temperature down to 13 degrees, the last day of the holidays, a light onshore, hardly any surfs coz I've been to NZ, the internet doesn't look good, the Trigger bros. surf report doesn' t look good....what to do?............may as well head down and have a look!
posted by Warrick Wynne at Friday, July 18, 2003



Thursday, July 03, 2003
Invercargill City - Home
posted by Warrick Wynne at Thursday, July 03, 2003



Remember Crystal Voyager: that trippy George Greenough on a ruber flat inside the tube movie with Nat on a keelboard? I used to like the soundtrack but could never find it anywhere; so a friend digitized a tape he had. Sounds a bit noisy, but when that 'Sing a Song of Changes' song came in, it all came rushing back.

Going to NZ for a week or so tomorrow, so shall check out the surf spots when I can, though it's mid-winter and I'm not taking my board.
posted by Warrick Wynne at Thursday, July 03, 2003



The first surf for a couple of weeks today, small waves, but a beautiful Winters day with very little wind, and nice left out the front of the steps. I egged the first couple at the takeoff, which was frustrating and got a rush of cold water into the wetsuit, reminding me of the truth of things. Then, as the small crew had decided I couldn't surf and started to go to drop in, the third wave worked, and I got that old old feeling back, trimming fast along the glassy sunny winter wall.

After that things got better. I got four or five good ones and everyone settled into a bit of a rhythm. The water was so clear that I could lineup where to sit by checking a big white flat rock (that I thought was a stingray at first) which was just about the spot to sit. There was a bit of SE in the swell, so some of them were swinging wide, but some were really fun.

When I came in there was a shell lying on the beach exactly where I paddled in. And not another shell up the beach either way. I took it as a good sign.
posted by Warrick Wynne at Thursday, July 03, 2003
June 2003 Postings

Sunday, June 01, 2003
Sore and tired after a couple of days of surfing in Western Port: clean conditions and super-glassy, and some intermittent waves coming from a long long way away it seemed. Long lulls, the four or five wave sets, then another long lull. Paddled around trying to find something decent, but it promised more than it delivered. First day of winter=first day of booties! Also, wanna get one of those insulator thermal rashies, which might be enough to eke my old XISLE 4/3 steamer through another winter.
posted by Warrick Wynne at Sunday, June 01, 2003
May 2003 Postings

Saturday, May 24, 2003
Beautiful Autumn conditions again; sunny skies, a small clean swell and a light offshore, but not many banks around still and I ended up surfing an over-shallow beach break left at low tide with lots of waves closing out, and some not breaking through. One kneeboarder was out there too, but he went in after a while and I stayed out there for a while by myself, which was kinda fun.
posted by Warrick Wynne at Saturday, May 24, 2003



Sunday, May 18, 2003
A couple of good surfs in the last couple of days enjoying the rapidly cooling water, the hazy still Autumn weather and that sense of the crowds beginning to thin out a bit. Lots of guys around at Gunna but some other places not too bad. Into the 4/3 now though, and booties coming soon no doubt!
posted by Warrick Wynne at Sunday, May 18, 2003
April 2003 Postings

Friday, April 25, 2003
Went away again, late in Easter for one night to Phillip Island, getting Right Point pretty clean and fun just before dark, then next day getting some small clean beach-breaks pretty much to ourselves. It was a classic Easter for weather, if not for surf, with Bells being moved to Johanna again, but this fun surf was about as good as it got for me.
posted by Warrick Wynne at Friday, April 25, 2003



Tuesday, April 15, 2003
Just got back from three days surfing on the West Coast, staying with my brother and though we only got beach breaks, it was uncrowded and fun, and the water isn't too cold yet. On the second day we were surfing a peak when two girls paddled out, followed on the beach by a giant entourage of cameramen. It seems they were a Thai film crew filming a TV ad for soy milk. It was peaky, windy, rained on and off, and a giant rainbow appeared. It looked kinda nice, though I don't know if it would sell soy milk.
posted by Warrick Wynne at Tuesday, April 15, 2003
March 2003 Postings

Friday, March 21, 2003
And tonight, a very different surf, onshore and about 3' with not many people around, driving down after work in bursts of rain to get some good fun ones, and one that was actually more than fun, and good.
posted by Warrick Wynne at Friday, March 21, 2003



Saturday, March 15, 2003
And this week, a meeting cancelled, watching the cam, a light onshore...take the opportunity.

I find myself. walking down the old sandy track I walked first in 1973, before the houses and the national park, to a little A-frame peak, highish tide so don't surf too far or you'll end on the rocks, but you do keep surfing it coz it keeps walling up, a bit full, and peaky, but some nice lefts and the water warm and seems clean and suddenly mid-week, when you least expected it, you're surfing again.
posted by Warrick Wynne at Saturday, March 15, 2003
February 2002 Postings

Saturday, February 22, 2003
Went down early this morning after watching the swell waver around all week and when it was still this morning had a small surf at Gunna at low with only a few guys around and occasionally one of the set waves running off along the waist deep sandbank, and occasionally I got enough speed to make a couple. It was nice sitting out there, chatting with an old friend about poetry and books and kids and a whole lot of other stuff between sets.
posted by Warrick Wynne at Saturday, February 22, 2003



Saturday, February 01, 2003
First pain-less surf for about six weeks today as my arms begins to come good. I was going to write about how good it felt to do those small things, to drive down early through Red Hill and Merricks, out of the blue sky and into a quick bright shower of rain, to wax the board up, to pull the wetsuit on with the sound of the wind and the waves around me.

And it did feel good. But the thing that struck me most this morning was the burnt out hillside over the surf break. Sometime, a week or so ago, a fire had gone through and the hills overlooking the beach were bare and black, studded with silver-white gums with their leaves all bronzed somehow. For the first time you could see the shape of the land, the ridges and the concaves and the gullies, and in the hillside an old water tank, and its lid further down the hill. It smelt of ash too, you could smell it out in the water, and see where the fire had begun, and, just before the houses on the road, been stopped. After all the talk about fires up around Omeo and Bright this week,it was strange and confronting to see evidence of them here; the grass burnt down to the high tide line.
posted by Warrick Wynne at Saturday, February 01, 2003
January 2003 Postings

Saturday, January 18, 2003
You sure don't know what you've got till it's gone. Just got back from a week away camping at Wilsons Prom, and my arm too sore to surf! It feels fine just walking around, but trying to push up on a surfboard gives it an exruciating jolt! I tried four times, stood up on precisely 6 waves for the week, watched the surfing action, even paddled out on a boogie board and took some photos one day, but didn't surf. And it really depressed me.
posted by Warrick Wynne at Saturday, January 18, 2003
December 2002 Postings

Thursday, December 26, 2002
Took the board up to Malacoota for a few days last week but didn't get any waves. It looked like there were some promising spots, perhaps not the beach breaks, which looked to be without banks. Maybe on a small day with an offshore. Unfortunately the board didn't leave it's cover, and there's nothing sadder than coming back from a trip away with the board still having the original sand on it from the last sessions.
posted by Warrick Wynne at Thursday, December 26, 2002



Monday, December 16, 2002
Managed to sneak in an early surf on the weekend at one of the hight tide reef breaks and watched bemused as two old (older than me) guys hassled two other old guys over the 2' onshore waves on offer. It was sad.
posted by Warrick Wynne at Monday, December 16, 2002



Monday, December 02, 2002
Played 'race the cool' change after work tonight, and this time I made it, with very good 3-4' waves on all the banks, including the sooper-dooper (but oh so crowded) left at First Car Park. A bit of a rip running through most banks, but good waves to be had, even late in the afternoon!
posted by Warrick Wynne at Monday, December 02, 2002
November 2002 Postings


Sunday, November 10, 2002
Finally got back in the water after the car-less saga. Crowded, and it turned onshore after about an hour, but it sure was nice to paddle out there again, and see the land from the sea, and the waves from the back, and feel the board skimming along (ever so slowly) on some little ones.

posted by Warrick Wynne at Sunday, November 10, 2002

October 2002 Postings

Saturday, October 19, 2002
Desperate and car-less for the last few weeks, hoping for a cold change each weekend so I'm not missing too much!
posted by Warrick Wynne at Saturday, October 19, 2002



Friday, October 04, 2002
It may be a certain cynicism creeping in coz the surf's been pretty average lately, but I was reading through a pile of TRACkS mags and article after article on Mick Fanning,and a couple of other Queensland guys, and it got me thinking; do you reckon they push some guys ahead of others coz of advertising $$$? aka RipCurl advertising?
posted by Warrick Wynne at Friday, October 04, 2002



Not much surf around, and though the water is getting warmer gradually, not a lot of excitement about. We need some good banks at Gunna!
posted by Warrick Wynne at Friday, October 04, 2002
September 2002 Postings (no postings from August)

Sunday, September 22, 2002
Spent a couple of days surfing around Apollo Bay, the water noticeably colder but miles and miles of beautiful coastline and so much potential for surf. We watched a right-hander that we were told nobody had ever surfed, and it looked awesome on some big sets, breaking over a shallow, very flat reef. When the wave broke the white water kind of exploded out of the back, which made it seem fairly wild and dangerous. All along that coast it seems there are possibilities when the swell and wind are right, and even in these crowded days there seems to be space to be had down that way.
posted by Warrick Wynne at Sunday, September 22, 2002



Thursday, September 05, 2002
It's funny how certain places you surf can give you familiar sensations and feelings no matter what the waves are like. Whenever I surf around Fairhaven there's something about the lighthouse in the distance and the small town of Lorne in the other direction that frame that place, give you this broad perspective where you look up and down the coast a lot, never at the land.

But surfing Norman Bay, at the Prom, I keep looking at the mountains at each end of the bay, but especially Mt Oberon which tumbles into the south end in great slabs of dripping rock. Or at the low ti-tree scrub between the mountains, like the opening to some jungle place, where the clouds drift to. Or, at the sandy bottom beneath my feet.The water is so clear I can't help it.
posted by Warrick Wynne at Thursday, September 05, 2002

July 2002 Postings

Sunday, July 21, 2002
Another cold clear day with some swell in Western Port Bay and some good fun little waves to be had up and down the coast. And my brother and I got some to ourselves, which was nice.
posted by Warrick Wynne at Sunday, July 21, 2002



Monday, July 01, 2002
Had a small but very clean surf today for the first official day of the holidays, the water colder on the hands than a couple of weeks agoa, but the sun on the back of the 4/3 steamer felt good. It was one of those days with long lulls between sets so you tended to spend the time looking down the bay at Phillip Island, or up towards Flinders and the houses you'll never live in, or talking to the other guys in the water about boards and the big swell a couple of weeks ago.

There was an old guy out on surf-ski and he had an awkward way of dragging one leg in the water that made me think for a minute it was Peg-Leg, legendary old surf-skiier who surfed this place when I first started surfing it around 1974. Peg-Leg actually only had one leg though and he used to take an orange buoy out with him and carefully place his take-off spot, way behind us shortboarders. But it wasn't him.

Later, the smell of smoke out in the wate as the offshore carried a grass-fire from somewhere hazily through the lineup and I got another couple then went in.
posted by Warrick Wynne at Monday, July 01, 2002
June 2002 Postings


Thursday, May 30, 2002
Headed down to the SURF COAST (WEST) over the weekend and got some decent waves at a little beach break on Sunday morning, and an ordinary onshore concoction on Saturday. The average age of the surfers on the west seems a bit older than the hoax coast, or maybe the young guys are surfing some hard-core heavy joint way down south? OR..! Maybe the West is more conducive to surfing longevity: more waves, more spread of size and power, choose your own adventure?

It was fun anyway: it was beautiful sitting out there on Sunday: so glassy, Lorne shrouded in cloud, the lighthouse at the other end shining white in sunshine.
posted by Warrick Wynne at Thursday, May 30, 2002



Saturday, May 11, 2002
Met up with my brother this morning hoping that the swell had hung in from yesterday but watched tiny waves for about an hour before checking out the Point and heading home. My mate Johnno used to say that the bad surfs bring the next good one closer, so it was with those thoughts that I headed home. I was also consoled by a good little surf at Gunna last Sunday morning with some small but clean lefts zipping along a left sandbank. Mid-week though I watched the net with horror as two perfect days passed by and I couldn't get away from work!
posted by Warrick Wynne at Saturday, May 11, 2002
May 2002 Postings

Thursday, May 30, 2002
Headed down to the SURF COAST (WEST) over the weekend and got some decent waves at a little beach break on Sunday morning, and an ordinary onshore concoction on Saturday. The average age of the surfers on the west seems a bit older than the hoax coast, or maybe the young guys are surfing some hard-core heavy joint way down south? OR..! Maybe the West is more conducive to surfing longevity: more waves, more spread of size and power, choose your own adventure?

It was fun anyway: it was beautiful sitting out there on Sunday: so glassy, Lorne shrouded in cloud, the lighthouse at the other end shining white in sunshine.
posted by Warrick Wynne at Thursday, May 30, 2002



Saturday, May 11, 2002
Met up with my brother this morning hoping that the swell had hung in from yesterday but watched tiny waves for about an hour before checking out the Point and heading home. My mate Johnno used to say that the bad surfs bring the next good one closer, so it was with those thoughts that I headed home. I was also consoled by a good little surf at Gunna last Sunday morning with some small but clean lefts zipping along a left sandbank. Mid-week though I watched the net with horror as two perfect days passed by and I couldn't get away from work!
posted by Warrick Wynne at Saturday, May 11, 2002
April 2002

Thursday, April 18, 2002
Picked up my new board (7'6") later than I wanted to on a Friday night last week and was lucky to find swell in the Western Port area just like I did when I got my last new board. I surfed the Reef till just about dark and got a couple of right handers but didn't get much of a feel for the board coz the waves were a bit gutless and I was conscious of running the thing on to rocks as it was dead low tide (and the board was brand new) Got enough to convince me the board worked though.

Next day had one of those outrageously good surfs you get (rarely) that bring you back smiling. Walked around to a right hand point with my brother and surfed it about 3-4' and pure glass by ourselves for an hour and a half, just sharing waves. The board feel real loose and got into waves as early as his 8' mini-mal I reckon. A classic morning.
posted by Warrick Wynne at Thursday, April 18, 2002



Thursday, April 11, 2002
Had a couple of days down at Wilsons Promontory again; two good fun surfs at Squeaky Beach, so named coz of its sand so clean and fine it squeaks. Rode the longboard (9') but a little frustrated at what I can do on it. It was about 3' and I coulda surfed something shorter and done more maybe.
posted by Warrick Wynne at Thursday, April 11, 2002



Saturday, April 06, 2002
Back on the mini-mal last night to finish the week with a surf. Surfing by myself, which I don't usually mind at all, but it was later afternoon, a grey sky and a light onshore with lots of lulls on the 3' left-hander. There were a few people on the beach including an older guy (yes, older than me) who'd lit a fire on the beach (Gidget kook shack style) and was hacking away the pine tree car park boundary things to add more fuel to his fire! It was kinda nice to be sitting out the back and seeing the light blue smoke wisping away over the pine trees in the distance, but it felt a bit sharkey after a while too, and I started thinking about Seal Rocks across there in the distance and what would be attracted to seals? There were dark shadowy clouds across the grey water at times, and big clumps of seaweed that were drifting in with the onshore. I got a couple more and came in a little earlier than I'd planned.

The Nobbies / Seal Rocks
posted by Warrick Wynne at Saturday, April 06, 2002



Wednesday, April 03, 2002
This is the posting I put through to the hoax coast today after trying out the 'stubby' in the first good surf I've had all Easter.

The 7'6" Stubby Vs 7' 6" Mini-Mal (Road Test)

Had the chance today to have a go on the new STUBBY (aka blaster, cheat-stick, nugget) which Triggers are shaping at the moment. In fact, if you go into the shop at Point Leo, practically the whole bunch of boards on the left hand side are these things. They describe it as as below but how does it stack up against a 7' 6" mini-mal? Read on...

Warrick's Road Test

Flickability: The nugget is definitely looser in the flick em around like CLuey department, and is quite twitchy feeling. It can go up and down quite vertically (Phil Trigger told me so) and it's more short board feel than mal in the dropping and climbing stakes.
Stubby - 7
Mini-mal - 5

Paddling: As expected the lack of foam at the front makes a difference and it doesn't paddle quite as smoothy as the mini-mal; you don't get that flow from paddle to paddle, but it floats well and you can duck-dive it easier because of the reduced foam in the front. This is the mal's big ace up its sleeve!
Stubby - 6
Mini-Mal - 8

Aesthetics: A personal decision surely, there are some who see longboards as intrinsically ugly, and others who see them as beautiful and retro as a 1971 Mustang. Some people even like those old S series Valiants! You can't account for different tastes. That said, the stubby looks more like the surfboards that we've been riding, even though the huge amount of foam in the tail has a kind of surreal look to it.
Stubby 7
Mini-Mal 6

Getting into waves: This was the real surprise, and Phil T. commented on it too. It gets into waves early and seems to get a lot of push out of that surreal foam I just mentioned. I thought I'd need an extra paddle or two (maybe you would if you were coming of an 8' mal) but it got into the waves easily.
Stubby - 8
Mini-Mal - 8

Street-cred: Like the aesthetics arguement, this is a matter of tase; most people judge this by imagining an angry young Harry looking over your board...what would he say? Chances are he wouldn't be overly-impressed with either board. He'd say the mal was a hoax and the tail of the stubby was 'shaped like an idiot' (might shape it) Truth is you wont win any street cred unless you get yourself a 6'2" Al Merrick potato peeler and it wont float you and you wont catch any waves with it!
Stubby - 6
Mini-Mal 5

Re-sale value: Who can say if anyone will want to buy one of these things in 2 years time when the next big thing comes round? There'll always be a market for mini-mals you'd reckon.
Stubby - 5
Mini-Mal 6

Overall: The board for the forty something who still wants to go whoop-bang on occasions and isn't ready yet to learn drop-knee turns and walking the board. It will require more fitness than the mal, but will probably deliver more fun too.

Totals
Stubby - 39 / 50
Mini-Mal - 38 / 50

That's it! I'm getting one!



posted by Warrick Wynne at Wednesday, April 03, 2002
March 2002 Posts

Sunday, March 31, 2002
Just got back from a couple of days down at Bells Beach, Torquay, looking at the Bells Beach Pro Contest. Didn't actually get to see a lot of surfing and though there was plenty of swell, there was also a howling onshore wind that threatened to blow the grand-stands down at one stage! Was most impressed by Mick Fanning, who surfed faster than anyone else and easily won his heat.

Mind you, the format for pro surfing still seems pretty stuffed to me. Three guys (later, two) out at Bells with a big sweep and a long, long paddle means that lots of waves go unridden and for a spectator it's like watching ice freeze over. Good fun though, the the Tracks karaoke party back at the Surf Museum was good fun too.
posted by Warrick Wynne at Sunday, March 31, 2002



Thursday, March 28, 2002
Pro. surfers are good at it aren't they? Last weekend I watched the No Fear Trials at Gunna for a little while with guys like Glyndyn Ringrose, Damien Hardman, Troy Brooks etc. ripping up my local beach. They move faster than normal surfers, they turn sharper, harder, quicker. The hot local looks slow all of a sudden, the pros. are all over it like a rash.

What I don't like is the way they don't respect the waves I do. I mean, the waves for them are just a platform, like a race-track or a diving board, or a stadium for them to perform. These were good waves for our coast, and I felt the pro's just kinda expected that.
posted by Warrick Wynne at Thursday, March 28, 2002



Saturday, March 23, 2002
Had the pleasant task of seeing a surfing comp. through to fruition last week;girlsurf 2002, a contest designed to encourage girls into surfing, sponsored by the school where I work. It was a very good day, with nearly a hundred girls from eleven different schools getting into 2-4' Crunchy Point. It was a pretty big job organising the thing, but worth it to see how stoked they all were. The only problem was that I didn't get a surf all day and the rest of the weekend was tres' ordinary.




girlsurf 2002
posted by Warrick Wynne at Saturday, March 23, 2002



Sunday, March 03, 2002
Had one of those surfs to remember last week; a small point break right hander, clean and glassy with no-one out except my brother and me. We surfed it for nearly two hours, taking turns, hooting each other, and in between sets sitting out the back talking or just looking at the green-hilled coastline in the clear, still morning. In the end I was so tired that I could hardly paddle but neither of us wanted to go in, and the surf end...
posted by Warrick Wynne at Sunday, March 03, 2002
Feb 2002 Posts

Sunday, February 17, 2002
Played 'race the cool change' on Friday night after work. A really hot day (38C) and an offshore and 3-4 foot swell. No wonder I was watching the progress of the cool change very intently on the weather bureau web site and decided to go for it. I did make it, and got 2 waves before the 40 knot southerly change swept through, complete with lightning and rain, sending everyone scurrying out of the water and into the car park. Was it worth it to rush down for two waves? Yes!
posted by Warrick Wynne at Sunday, February 17, 2002



Wednesday, February 13, 2002
Had one of those fun surfs tonight; surfing with a friend after work on a hot afternoon with a light onshore and not too many guys around. We surfed a fattish left which had great fun takeoffs while a few others surfed a right with a rip in it that looked a bit like Kirra if you squinted. Good fun!
posted by Warrick Wynne at Wednesday, February 13, 2002



Saturday, February 02, 2002
Saw Jack McCoy's short film of Laird Hamilton towing in to the 'heaviest wave ever ridden, 'Day of Days' at the Capitol Theatre in Melbourne. Pretty amazing. Actually, bloody amazing. Apart from some hoaxy looking hyrofoil surfing and a bit of longboarding which could have been edited out, the actual wave was just incredible. Actually, when everyone started hooting, I think they were hooting at the wave, so perfect and so unridable looking and fascinating and deadly, like starting at a giant snake or something.

Whether it has anything to do with surfing as I know it? Well.
posted by Warrick Wynne at Saturday, February 02, 2002
January 2002 Posts

Saturday, January 19, 2002
A couple of days of swell lately and some good little waves on the point breaks around Shoreham has been a lot of fun after a summer of small beach breaks. One memorable surf was out at Atlas the other afternoon completely by myself! A weird feeling in this crowded world to be out a break by yourself. There were about six guys riding the right about 100 metres away but I surfed for nearly an hour by myself, sitting where I wanted to sit, taking the waves I wanted, until at the end 3 guys paddled out. Good fun.
posted by Warrick Wynne at Saturday, January 19, 2002



Saturday, January 12, 2002
Anyway, that's the posting (below) that I sent the boys. What I didn't tell them was how good it felt to be out in Norman Bay again, the clear water and the granite cliffs all round, the wide open beach, and all that.
posted by Warrick Wynne at Saturday, January 12, 2002



My Hoax Coast posting from the PROM

Good to be back on the ol' hoax coast after a week at the Prom cavorting in the shining but cold delights of Prom surfing.

Had some good little waves at Norman all week, surfing the long boards, and including a memorable little sesh at the picture-perfect Pocket, when Geoff paddled down from centre-crack, a hell paddle bicep arms! It can now be affirmed that Geoff's new McTavish 'Ray Glebe' model officially works and that Andrew has lost none of his old self-belief, grabbing wave after wave on his trusty 8' footer which ironically made him the shortboard rider for most of the week.

There were mini magic moments a plenty; Howey paddling out to join us mid-surf one afternoon, lugging the freaking mals down the beach, beer o'clock, the windy change that stripped Geoff's tent bare!, and a memorable little sesh at Darby River with hollow peaks as far as the eye could see, walking the long walk relating stories of how Duffy once paddled down the tiger-snake infested river to the beach rather than face the Marchies and much more. One of the windy days we drove down to Walkerville and saw some potential; Norman Bay was 6'+ and blown out onshore but Walkerville was clean and looked very surfable; anyone know if there are any good points along there?

Now back to hoax coast reality!
posted by Warrick Wynne at Saturday, January 12, 2002
December 2001 Posts



Thursday, December 20, 2001
Got down early this morning coz of the change coming and it was small but beautiful and clean so I walked down the beach to a little shorebreak style peak that a guy walking back told me about, which was a good call.

It was a left shorey between 1-3' and pure airbrushed glass with the change way over in the distance lending a grey mother-of-pearl sheen to the sea and the sky and the small crackling barrels running along the sandbank looked, from the back, like beautiful engines. One small peak cracked so cleanly and loudly that I thought it was a wave hitting a board and I looked around to see if there was another guy paddling out, but it was just the way the wave broke so cleanly on itself. Then at 9.04 am the wind swung light onshore and there was time for a couple more but the whole thing was a windy choppy mess and the carpark when I left had two cars left in it only, and the surf was gone for the day, maybe longer.

posted by Warrick Wynne at Thursday, December 20, 2001



Wednesday, December 19, 2001
More fun today surfing small and peaky Gunnamatta with not too many guys around. One guy on a mal kept throwing it away each time he paddled through a wave, which was annoying if you were on that wave, but it was sunny and fun otherwise. Caught up with some friends on the beach, caught a few waves, got home in time for a late lunch. That's a good day I reckon.
posted by Warrick Wynne at Wednesday, December 19, 2001



Tuesday, December 18, 2001
Surfed a small and onshore Peak Rock today as the surf drought became more desperate. Very few northerlies so far this summer, and not many banks around Gunna and the ocean beaches. It was nice to get wet again!

posted by Warrick Wynne at Tuesday, December 18, 2001



Saturday, December 01, 2001
Its summer!!!!! But no surf this weekend by the looks of the weather; shall have to be content at the Sufriders Club Presentation night bulshitting about the good ol' days!
posted by Warrick Wynne at Saturday, December 01, 2001
November 2001

Saturday, November 24, 2001
Small, but warmer in the water. The guy I was with didn't like the look of the 1' cross-shore beach break and said he would come out if I got one that I did turns on. He didn't come out. A guy and his girlfriend did, and then later four other guys; obviously not much better around. It's rare to see the ocean beaches so small and it usually doesn't last long. As I said to the guy int the water, 'At least it's wet'. He agreed.

posted by Warrick Wynne at Saturday, November 24, 2001



Sunday, November 04, 2001
Surfed Gunna this morning for the first time in a while, and a touch of summer in the air, with the Rangers out and charging $4 to get in, and the car park filling up early. Met up with a couple of guys in the car park and we surfed a left down Second Car Park, a little short and fat at the end but a good takeoff, straight offshore, and warming up. Walking down the beach I saw an old fishermen pull in a shiny silver salmon, his kids smiling around as he pulled it in, weird to think of those things swimming free underneath us as we surf. I got a few waves and got out of there before the place filled up completely. Summer's coming though!

Mornington Peninsula Coastal Park

posted by Warrick Wynne at Sunday, November 04, 2001
October 2001

Friday, October 05, 2001
Spent the last couple of days of the holidays surfing at Wilsons Promontor, the most southerly part of mainland Australia, and a beautiful national park with some good beach breaks at times. Clear cold water, peaky 3-4' waves and hardly anyone around. A light onshore and a bit choppy but compensated by the view from the water of the granite-faced mountains all round and not a house or a car in sight! Next day I surfed Squeaky Beach which was fun too and a bit punchier.

How to find the Prom
posted by Warrick Wynne at Friday, October 05, 2001
This is my good old surfing blog moved from the old site, coz it stopped working.